Working Lunch: The Game Bird is perfect for a languorous meal
We sampled the menu of The Game Bird and enjoyed a calming lunch suitable for a long business catchup
What is it?
It’s a gem of a restaurant hidden within The Stafford Hotel. Reached via a narrow alleyway just off the park, it can be quite easy to miss. The decor is eclectic, with nods to traditional Georgian architecture with dark furniture and taxidermied pheasants, lightened with bursts of pop art. There is also the opportunity to eat outside, though the garden area is a little on the small side, and devoid of the interior’s old world charm.
Who’s responsible?
Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the chef behind Michelin-starred Northcote in Lancashire, another property in the Stafford Collection, took the helm of The Game Bird in September, collaborating with executive chef Jozef Rogulski to offer “familiar favourites” and “delicious surprises”.
What’s the vibe?
The Game Bird serves up seasonal British produce in an elegant but unfussy manner. The restaurant’s main offerings are hinted at in the name, with a “Hoof, Feather & Field” section of the menu that boasts roast squab pigeon, venison wellington, and dry-aged grass-fed beef. “From the Sea” one can enjoy butter-poached native lobster, dover sole, and orkney scallop tempura. Most dishes can be altered for vegans and vegetarians.
What should I order?
I would recommend the jersey rock oysters as a way to begin the meal, paired with a crisp glass of sauvignon blanc. The bespoke “salmon trolley” offers guests a selection of H Forman & Son smoked salmon doused in a gentle mist of Scotch whisky. Meanwhile the “frothy sweetcorn soup” starter comes, rather incongruously, with two breaded chicken drumsticks poised over a bowl of popcorn kernels (the chicken was delicious; the kernels only decorative).
As a main dish, the dover sole is light, and is accompanied with sprigs of samphire, potted shrimp and a creamy sauce that compliments without overwhelming the delicate flavours of the fish. For an even lighter meal, the butter-poached native lobster comes with a salad of house-dried tomatoes and wilted vegetables.
Dessert is an event at The Game Bird: with crepe suzettes whipped up from scratch before guests in a history-focused presentation. There is a hearty selection of cakes, but also the option of coffee and a scoop of liquorice ice cream should you just want a palate cleanser.
Could I bring a client?
At a two minute’s stroll from Green Park Tube it is ideally situated for a business lunch. The service is well-paced to give ample opportunity to discuss important matters, and to make the most of finally being face to face after an eighteen month hiatus – but perhaps not great if you are wanting a quick lunch.
To reserve a table visit thestaffordlondon.com, call 0207 493 0111, or visit The Stafford, 16-17 St. James’s Place, SW1A 1NJ