Why you should drink Cava for the Jubilee
Cava did itself a disservice after its popularity boom in the 1950s and 60s, flooding the market with cheaper versions and paying the price by putting off discerning consumers for the last few decades. Now they are taking steps to create and cultivate a premium product through greater care and stricter regulations – and the results are paying off.
Those in the wine world are already Cava fans, me included. Made in the traditional method (like Champagne) it offers excellent quality and complexity at reasonable prices. I recently tried the “most expensive Cava in the world”, the 459 Gran Reserva 2010 Brut by Codorniu, a sumptuous, elegant blend of three single-varietal, single-vineyard wines. Under 2,000 bottles have been created and all are already pre-sold to premium distributors such as Hedonism. The price? A relatively modest £200 a bottle.
It is no surprise that the drive for prestige comes from Codorniu, the oldest wine producer and oldest family wine business in Spain, and the 17th oldest wine business in the world. Situated in picturesque Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just 40 minutes from Barcelona, “this is the heart of Cava,” according to Andrea Cerezo, on-trade manager for the UK. “All the top brands are here”.
It is certainly beautiful, flooded with sunshine and birdsong and with its own ‘Cathedral of Cava’ style building designed by Gaudi and Puig I Cadafalch. A popular destination for visitors, it offers tastings by reservation, including a cellar tour unlike anything I have ever experienced. Ranging over five floors, 50 metres underground, the labyrinthine tunnels stretch so far one is driven through them by train.
Winemaker Bruno Colomer has been here for 14 years, turning the tide for Cava production. “The only way to try to control the future is to know the past,” he says. Out of 240 companies producing Cava, only 60 grow their own grapes, 20 of which create base wine to sell to the other 180 companies. “We grow our own grapes. I’m happy here, I can control it all from harvest to glass”.
‘The Art Collector’ range, named for the harvest (the literal art of collection), “Aims to showcase what we do and position our product where we want to move as a company,” says Moisés Almenara, head of the UK team. “[We] work on the upper tiers in terms of quality and uplift the idea of Cava”. This range stretches from the entry level Blanc de Blanc (Ocado, £18) and Blanc de Noir (Hedonism, £19.20) to the Paratge Qualificat single-vineyard wines such as the stunning El Tros Nou 2010, still fresh after 12 years, or the sublime La Fideuera, made from 100 per cent local grape Xarel-lo.
Not a natural wine drinker, after over a decade in the US as CMO of The Kellogg Company, CEO Sergio Fuster moved his family to Spain: “I fell in love with the wine, there are a lot of jewels to be uncovered. The passion in this industry is incredible but though we are large for Spain, we are very small compared to other countries. Our aim is to become a true global wine leader”.
Stock up on these Jubilee wines
Moët & Chandon Impérial Jubilee Edition, £43, Clos19.com
No stranger to Royal Court this special bottle has been released to honour the Queen’s Jubilee. Pinot Noir and Meunier dominant this is a rich, complex Champagne aged for two years in cellar. Fine, creamy bubbles with notes of toasty hazelnut pastries and delicate orchard fruits.
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Iteration, £178, The Finest Bubble
The Grand Siècle is always a blend of three exceptional vintages and no.25 is from 2006, 2007 and 2008. The emphasis is on creating a racy freshness combined with a refined nuttiness, whispers of ripe apricots and a long, elegant finish. A class act.
Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut, £13.99, Aldi
Is this the best value Champagne around? It may well be. Over-delivering on quality time and time again, this deliciously crisp fizz is a satisfying blend of ripe red apples, freshly baked brioche and graceful blossoms. An impeccable aperitif for your Jubilee Street Party!
Hambledon Vineyard Première Cuvée, £55, Fortnum & Mason
Double down on the patriotism and buy British with this iconic, award-winning bubbly from England’s oldest commercial vineyard. Aged for an impressive six years on the lees, expect complex flavours of buttery lemons, almond croissant, lilies and honeysuckle. Delicious.
Babylonstoren Mourvèdre, £16.99, Taurus Wines
The official rosé of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show from the RHS accredited garden and farm in South Africa, this pretty pink wine blooms with rose petals and punnets of strawberries and raspberries. Fresh yet creamy, this is the perfect sip for a garden party celebration.