The rise of bespoke perfumery
For centuries fragrances have beguiled us. Ancient civilisations experimented with perfumes and by the 11th century, European scent-masters were plying their olfactory trade. It became a mainstream craft in Victorian times, when leaps in scientific knowledge – and equipment – made it possible to create previously unattainable compounds.
Throughout most of its existence, perfume was the preserve of the wealthy. Sourcing rare ingredients is expensive (one popular material is ambergris, a fatty compound secreted by the sperm whale: not exactly something you just stumble across) and refining them into something usable was – and remains – a long and arduous process.
Post-war consumerism, though, changed the face of the industry – clever marketing secured its status as a luxury brand but perfumes became available to the masses. They earned a reputation as “must-have” luxury products and people who would balk at the price of a Jean Paul Gaultier dress happily spend money on his branded perfume.
Things ticked along quite happily for a few decades, with most designers launching lucrative scent lines. The 2000s, though, saw another major shift. As scents became ubiquitous (as opposed to ways for the rich to mask their smell in lieu of regular bathing), demand grew for unusual or bespoke perfumes. A wealth of boutique perfumers came to the market, offering highly tailored services to well heeled customers wanting to stand out from the crowd. The traditionally female-dominated industry also expanded to accommodate more men, with most perfumers offering a wide range of male scents.
This was supplemented by leaps in the scientific understanding of smell – including the emergence of a new theory of how our nose interprets different scents. It had been assumed that molecules were “read” in the same way our that body interacts with proteins – by shape. A new school of thought argued that we in fact respond to the distinct vibrations of molecules.
This allowed scientists to recreate rare (or, in the case of the pleasant-smelling but carcinogenic coumarin, dangerous) compounds that had been unusable.
There are plenty of opportunities for discerning Londoners to take advantage of bespoke perfumery. Ormonde Jayne offers a service involving at least three meetings – in which your tastes (do you like coffee? The idea of the mountains or the ocean? Spicy food?) are marked down and perfumes concocted accordingly.
The six month process will eventually guarantee you find the ideal scent. Prices start at around £5,000 but, depending on the ingredients used and the degree of customisation of the bottle, they can exceed £20,000.
What price, though, on discovering the key to your perfect scent?
See ormondejayne.com or call 020 7499 1100 for more information.
WHAT YOUR SMELL SAYS
DON DRAPER
Rich opulent woody scents hint towards sophisticated, cultivated intellectuals. Throw in a touch of black hemlock or oud (a resinous heartwood formed in quilaria and gyrinop trees after they are infected by mould) for a seductive, masculine scent. Try Ormonde Jayne’s Ormonde Man
GEORGE CLOONEY
Pink pepper, drydown of cedar, mandarin and moss gives an elegant fragrance with a fruity twist. This is a complex scent that works across age ranges. It’s a sign of a classy man who may still be a bit of a player. Try Ormonde Jayne’s Isfarkand
THIERRY HENRY
Vetiver, a type of grass, is the scent of choice for sporty, hot-blooded types – a fragrance that says masculine and dominant. Try Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan