The real White Lotus hotel: San Domenico Palace, Sicily
In the world of luxury and super-luxury hotels, a new category has emerged, one that’s so exclusive it has only been bestowed upon two resorts in the entire world: the White Lotus Hotel.
The White Lotus is, of course, the fictional hotel chain from the eponymous HBO drama, a place where the world’s wealthiest families gather to engage in sexy mischief. The first season was filmed at the Four Seasons Maui in Hawaii, a sprawling haven of poolside cabanas and infinity pools overlooking rugged volcanos.
Season two was shot closer to home at the Sicilian San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons Hotel in Taormina, which is where I checked in for a taste of the billionaire lifestyle (the upcoming third season is filmed in an amalgamation of hotels on the Thai islands of Phuket and Koh Samui, once again featuring the Four Seasons).
Where is San Domenico Palace?
Taormina is located on the coast at the North East end of Sicily, just beyond the rolling foothills of Mt Etna. Built into the dramatic cliffs, the San Domenico Palace overlooks the Ionian sea and the warren of ancient alleyways that unfold below. The hotel is housed in a 14th century convent, with much of the original stonework visible throughout (it was bought by Four Seasons and reopened as recently as 2021). The restoration is a fabulous blend of old and new; the smart, modern rooms, for instance, are accessible through stone arches clearly built for less statuesque 14th century monks.
What are the highlights?
True to the fictional White Lotus resort, the Four Seasons is the kind of place where the staff seem to have a preternatural insight into their guests, anticipating their every whim. You could comfortably spend a long weekend here without venturing beyond the heavy wooden gates, ensconced in this little precision-engineered slice of hotel paradise. Every detail has been considered, every possible angle pored over, every visible object deliberated and deemed acceptable. Whether you’re admiring the collection of 14th century artefacts, strolling through the fragrant lavender gardens or lounging on the terrace that overhangs the cliff edge, you really feel like White Lotus royalty.
Is it the same as the White Lotus TV show?
As soon as you enter the private courtyard, you’re immersed in White Lotus territory. Filming took place throughout the public areas, with familial arguments spilling onto the walkways surrounding a palm-lined central atrium. Fans of the show could happily spend a day recreating the famous scenes, from sloshing cocktails at the bar to reclining by the pool that overlooks the Greek Theatre. It’s not exactly the same, however – there’s no direct access to the beach, which is actually a fair distance from the hotel.
What about the food?
Make sure you book a table at the fine dining restaurant Principe Cerami, which showcases excellent and innovative spins on Sicilian cuisine. Perhaps the most memorable dish from my three-hour meal was the ‘spaghetti monte Etna’, in which the chef had painstakingly curled thick strands of pasta into the shape of a volcano, complete with black ash and magma. Stunning and delicious. The restaurant was hoping to be promoted to two Michelin stars in the latest guidebook but narrowly missed out.
What’s Taormina like?
Taormina is absolutely idyllic, one of those picture-perfect Italian towns, all sweeping yellow-stone arches and mosaic squares and quaint little chapels. Steep, winding lanes are home to more osterias and trattorias than you could dine in should you remain here for a month. It’s almost too perfect, so much so that it sometimes doesn’t feel real, like it’s an elaborate recreation, a kind of Disneyland themed around the Italian renaissance.
San Domenico Palace need to know
There are daily flights from London to Catania. From Catania it’s an hour’s drive north to Taormina. San Domenico Palace can organise a car to pick you up from the airport. Alternatively there are coaches and a train that will take you from Catania to Taormina in less than 90 minutes.
Prices at San Domenico are from €1,500 including breakfast during low season or €2,500 in high season. Go to the website here.