The poshest picnic in the UK: why it’s worth booking Glyndebourne 2024
A picnic at the historic house of Glyndebourne is a highlight of the better weathered seasons, and one of the poshest pursuits in Britain, says Sophie Ibbotson
f there is a recipe for the perfect summer evening, warm weather, extensive gardens, and al fresco dining are surely indispensable ingredients. At Glyndebourne in East Sussex, your hosts add world-class opera to the mix, creating an unforgettable and quintessentially English experience. I tried it out for size.
THE FESTIVAL: The annual Glyndebourne Festival has taken place since 1934 and entertains around 150,000 opera lovers every summer. An hour south of London, it is easy enough to escape here for an evening, but to make the most out of your long weekend, book tickets for two consecutive nights. There are six productions to choose from this season, including Stravinsky’s The Rake’s Progress, Handel’s Semele, and Britten’s retelling of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The festival runs from 16 May until 27 August.
THE GARDENS: Glyndebourne’s 12 acres of greenery surround the historic house and the purpose-built opera theatre. When Vita Sackville-West visited in 1953, she described it as a place where, “the graciousness of civilisation… surely touched a peak,” which is high praise indeed given that her own garden, Sissinghurst in Kent, is now Grade 1 listed. You can set out your picnic almost anywhere in the gardens: on the lawns above the sunken fence; beside the Mary Christie Rose Garden or the herbaceous borders; or overlooking the lake, which is home to the most enormous fish. Before the performance begins it is well worth taking a stroll to admire the grounds, the sensitively placed sculptures, and the outfits of fellow opera goers.
THE PICNIC: Executive Chef Steve Groves, a former Masterchef Professionals winner, and his team prepare nearly 9,000 picnics for Glyndebourne’s festival-goers each season. The current menu, which is designed to be eaten in the gardens in the 90-minute interval, costs £63 per person and includes some incredibly posh things, such as hot smoked chalk stream trout with herb creme fraiche; beetroot hummus with chicory and pomegranate molasses; and potted ham hock with mustard pickles. Fresh baguettes and sausage rolls with fennel and sage are baked during the first half of the performance and delivered still-warm to the table. “We try to make as much in-house as possible and to source locally: the closer the better!” Explains Steve. “We have to strike a balance between locality and quality, as that’s the most sustainable approach, and we choose suppliers who share the same values.” When you pre-book a picnic you also get a table and chairs, crockery and cutlery, and a guaranteed spot under cover if the weather turns against you.
WHERE TO STAY: There’s no audience accommodation on site at Glyndebourne, so treat yourself to a stay at The Star in Alfriston, a 15-minute taxi ride away. The Star was founded as a religious hostel in 1345, accommodating pilgrims on their way to the shrine of St Richard in Chichester. The mediaeval facade still stands, and behind it is an elegant hotel run by mother-and-daughter team Olga and Alex Polizzi. Olga is well-known as an interior designer and her taste shines through in the individually-designed rooms and suites. Opt for a Junior Suite and you’ll get a large, light room with bold, bright fabrics and original artworks on the walls. There’s ample space to relax and enjoy a glass of wine as you get dressed up for your evening of opera, and as The Star’s restaurant stays open late, you can even make a dinner reservation for your return.
TOP TIP: If you prefer to prepare your own picnic for Glyndebourne, Steve Groves suggests choosing food that will travel well, and particularly recommends salads, but says to keep acidic dressings separate so the leaves don’t wilt.
VISIT GLYNDEBOURNE YOURSELF
Tickets to events within the Glyndebourne Festival are available now at the festival’s website; rooms at The Star are available from £230 and can be booked at thepolizzicollection.com.
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