The personal touch: why you need a stylist
Change comes slowly to the citadels of menswear in Savile Row. There were intakes of breath when the venerable Huntsman and Sons (established in 1849) forged a commercial cinema tie-in with the Kingsman franchise. So the idea of visiting not just a traditional tailor but someone who would offer the services of a personal stylist has been a revolution.
Surely a gentleman knows his own mind? Perhaps a faint nudge towards a slant pocket rather than straight, or three buttons rather than two, but the idea of bespoke tailoring is to give, not receive, instructions.
Some clients now want more than that. I spoke to Alexandra Wood, one of the first female tailors on Savile Row, who offers advice to her clients like Tony Parsons, Rory Bremner and Chuka Umunna.
“It’s about understanding how you live and work, and creating a collection of pieces that fit you, and your life, perfectly,” she explains. “As new events come up and new seasons arise, I am then on hand to make suggestions and create new pieces that my customers need.”
Naturally there is some initial reluctance.
“I often say that I’m there to gently move men out of their comfort zone… but everything’s a learning curve,” Alexandra adds. “I tailor for Jason Cowley, editor of The New Statesman, and when I presented him with a green jacket once, he instantly rejected it. But I asked him to try it on anyway, for me. And he loved it.”
That reluctance is soon banished. Indeed, Alexandra says that her styling advice has become a key part of her commercial offering as a bespoke tailor.
“They often tell me off (in a nice way)—because they can never go back to a normal tailor. Their clothes can fit well, be made from the highest quality fabrics—but they also have to work for that individual. This is the very reason they choose me. I have a vision for each person which makes them look more stylish, polished and confident.”
It is perhaps no coincidence that Alexandra’s distinctive approach comes with being a female tailor, still a rarity in high-end bespoke menswear.
“Men like that their style is coming from a woman because I’m not trying to push my view of how I dress onto them. I’m looking at it more objectively. I still have a signature style in terms of men’s clothing—I love sleek and sharp, flattering cuts and keeping clothing simple—but I also believe in allowing your natural personality to come through, combined with the right textures and colours to create that ‘wow’ factor.”
Is this the future of luxury tailoring? I have certainly been arguing for some time that in order to flourish in the post-Covid world the bespoke industry must seek to maximise the value of its offering and emphasise the experiential nature of shopping on Savile Row or Jermyn Street. Customers will still pay high prices, but more than ever they need to be convinced that it is worth it.
Alexandra claims not to pay too much attention to her competitors. “If I consider what other tailors do, I’ll be distracted. I know that I offer a sexier edge, yet one that’s clean, crisp and timeless. And, that I won’t always make what you think you want, I’ll make what I know is right for you. That’s me. And my customers buy into my vision.”
Perhaps her rivals are watching her, however. Huntsman now offers a personal shopping service, while there are individual consultants who offer to help you navigate the heady world of bespoke. This seems an obvious space for even the stuffiest cutters: tastes are changing as a new generation of clients finds itself able to afford the best suits and shirts, and younger customers are instinctively demanding.
Even if you think you know your look, and know what works, everyone can benefit from a second opinion. So why not try a personal stylist? I asked Alexandra for her number one tip for the well-dressed gentleman.
“Don’t try too hard. Being stylish is about knowing, and staying true to, your own natural style.”
Even if you knew that already, it’s good to have it confirmed.