Terra at Eataly is an Italian wine lover’s dream
For the Italian wine lover there is no better London spot than Eataly, which boasts the largest selection of Italian wines in the UK. Newly launched Terra is the beating heart of this ode to Italophilia, focusing on simple Italian dishes cooked with flair and fire in their wood-burning grill.
There is a comforting buzz about this place, with its bare wooden tables, napkins tied with twine and ceiling festooned with hanging greenery and warmly glowing lightbulbs in coloured jars. The clever cocktail list is divided into the four elements, and I started with a Spritz Torbato which, with its mix of smoke, spritz and sparkle, tasted like the hedonistic summer parties of my twenties.
Dishes are served with a sense of theatre, juicy prawns hanging on a huge, suspended skewer, and my excellent Filetto di Manzo presented with a flourish on a bed of smoking hay. I opted for a bottle of Marco De Bartoli’s Grillo from Sicily, a lesser-known grape but a white wine that paired well with my winning starter of grilled squid Panzanella salad and had the structure and depth to handle a steak. It is at the end of the meal however that Terra really comes into its own, delivering its own take on the cheese and dessert trolley tradition.
Two large, creamy spoonfuls of gorgonzola are scooped from a massive wheel of cheese and served decorated with dried fruits, nuts and drizzles of honey. The Maritozzi, a homemade sweet sourdough brioche, is selected, sliced, and filled with whipped cream which, our waiter tells us, is so fresh and rich it reminds him of the gelato shop he used to live next to as a boy. Like the pizza parlour ice cream counter of our adult dreams, this can be covered in anything from Nutella to pistachio cream to chopped hazelnuts, amarena cherries and mini amaretti.
The whole experience feels like a sophisticated nod to ‘80s nostalgia, minus the kitsch. That feeling is cemented by the polaroid photo taken of every new guest as a parting gift.
Wines of the week
Gaia Cabernet Franc, Domaine Bousquet, £16.95, Vintage Roots
Known for their excellent Malbecs, Domaine Bousquet delight with this Cabernet Franc full of finesse and flavour. Vibrant black and red fruits and just a touch of baking spice and black pepper. I drank this with steak, and it was a perfect pair.
Clarendelle Bordeaux Rouge 2016, £22, Laithwaites
A graceful Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend inspired by the legendary Chateau Haut-Brion, run by Prince Robert of Luxembourg and created by an excellent First Growth winemaking team. Complex and elegant, this is a treat for Easter Sunday lamb.
Heggies Vineyard Estate Botrytis Riesling (half bottle), £14.99, Waitrose
Absolutely delicious. Layers of sugared grapefruit slices and delicate white blossoms. The late harvest means this wine sings with rich notes of beeswax and marmalade. An expertly handled dessert wine at the pinch of the price of Sauternes.
Catena Zapata ‘Nicasia’ Malbec 2018, Argentina, £69.99, Majestic
Celebrate International Malbec Day on 17th April with this utter beauty. From 80-year-old vines at specially selected sites in Uco Valley this is a sumptuous, premium Malbec. Decant 30 minutes before drinking and it truly sings in the glass.
Moulin-A-Vent, £17, The Wine Society
From vines of up to 100 years old this is a powerful but balanced Beaujolais from one of the finest Crus. Silky black fruits, cedarwood spice and structured tannins make this a wine able to cellar for years to come, if you can wait. It is terrifically tasty right now.