RUM at the top
The Caribbean spirit is entering the ranks of the premium tipples, writes Timothy Barber
What do you think about when you think about rum? For lots of folk, the answer is one of two things: a glass of Bacardi and coke, or pirates. Okay, so a few people know that it forms the basis for some excellent cocktails, but as a drink in its own right, rum has remained in the shadows for a long time.
The tide is turning, however, and turning quickly. Quality Caribbean rums have started migrating from specialist offices to the shelves of Waitrose and Sainsbury’s; London Bridge wine mecca Vinopolis has opened a Caribbean rum tasting experience dedicated to the stuff; ultra-trendy Mayfair bar Mahiki have even brought out their own rum that’s on sale at Selfridges who, along with Harrods, are doing a roaring trade in high-end blends.
Perhaps the most interesting sign that rum is on the up is that Bacardi, for so long the dominant brand with its white rum hen-night staple, has noticed the way the wind is blowing too.
“Bacardi has changed its strategy over the past year,” says Ian Burrell, rum expert and the man behind October’s celebration of the spirit, Rum Fest. “They’ve realised that people thought of Bacardi as a drink in itself, rather than as rum, so they’re spending heavily on promoting the mojito and realigning themselves with rum.”
The mojito is the classic rum cocktail, and the spirit features in several other favourites such as the daquiri, pina colada or mai tai.
A Happy Drink
However, with the growing availability of good quality rum, it has been revealing itself as a tipple that, on its own, can be the equal of brandy, cognac or even a Scottish single malt.
Effectively a by-product of the sugar industry – it’s distilled from the molasses created in the formation of sugar crystals – rum can be made anywhere between the two tropics. This means there are huge varieties of rums from all over the world, though the Caribbean remains its spiritual home and area of greatest diversity.
“A top end Caribbean rum is a happy drink,” says Dave Broom, a writer on spirits who is advising Vinopolis’ campaign for Caribbean rum. “It’s sweet, rich, soft, with a lovely oak character, touches of vanilla and cream, hints of tropical fruits and spices. You don’t have to make a huge leap in your mind to think of the Caribbean.”
Generally aged in bourbon barrels and intricately blended, rum’s great strength is its versatility – in character and taste, and consequentially in use. Put it in cocktails, have it with ice and a bit of lime, or add water to soften it on the palate and release the mesh of flavours.
Alternatively, pour a dash into a brandy glass to have after a meal with a cigar or chocolate. The complexity of aromas and bouquets released by a top rum as you swirl it round the glass will be more intense than brandy or even cognac.
“I can nose it for five or six minutes before having a sip because there’s always so much going on there,” says Burrell.
Value for Money
Even within the Caribbean, rums from Cuba, Jamaica, Barbados, Martinique and elsewhere each have their own characteristics and distinguishing traits to be explored – it’s as far from basic rum’n’coke as it is from the naval stuff of old.
Even better, rum is not nearly as expensive as cognac or whisky. Since it is only now being elevated to the ranks of premium drinks, the market for top quality rum is still young.
Because it is made in tropical areas, it ages more quickly: an eight year old rum is equivalent to a scotch whisky of at least 18 years but far less dear. A limited edition single vintage bottle of JM rum from Martinique might cost £65, but its whisky equivalent would push well clear of £100.