New winemakers taking Macon by storm
The Macon has been referred to as “the unknown cousin of Burgundy”, but with prices soaring all over Bourgogne it is worth taking stock, literally, of these delicious wines and some of the bold, new winemakers taking over the region.
Though Burgundy can be seen as the old-school seat of traditional winemaking, a younger generation of producers are seeking to make their own mark. With Gen Z putting more and more importance on authenticity and the environment, sustainability and organic practices are coming to the fore.
“The vine is always in the ground, so it is important to respect it” says Auxence Couturier of Domaine Marcel Couturier, who has been driving his estate towards biodynamic farming. “Vines have long lives like humans, so it is important to have a long-term perspective”.
At nearby Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, brother and sister winemaking team Vivien and Lisa Saumaize have been biodynamic since 2004 and are in the process of swapping tractors for chickens. A seemingly unlikely exchange but the chicken’s scratching is low impact weed control, there is the added benefit of fresh eggs and of course, they come with their own fertiliser. “Some traditions are important,” says Lisa. “Such as vinification in barrel or the traditional Mâconnais party at the end of harvest,” but just because things have been done a certain way for generations does not make it right. “Why use chemical products when natural ones work?”.
Paul Merlin of Domaine du Vieux Sorlin agrees. “A lot of people are scared of chemicals, and we don’t really need them. Even if it is harder some years, it is better for the environment and humans”.
It is not, however, just the environmental practises that the younger generation are transforming, but the style and taste of the wines too. Consumers’ tastes are changing, says Paul’s brother Théo. “So we harvest earlier to retain acidity and freshness and we use less new oak. Our father realised because of us that there was too much oak before”. Given their wines are stocked by the illustrious Berry Bros & Rudd we can assume they are making the right calls.
“It is not easy as the younger generation,” Théo continues. “Because Burgundy is very traditional, and we want to experiment and improve. Some people really do not want to change,” but the Macon seems more open to new ideas than elsewhere.
When asked why wines from this region label themselves ‘Macon’ rather than the better known and established ‘Bourgogne’, Vivien Saumaize explains that “we could use Bourgogne, but we would sound like a lower classification. We are proud to be Macon and what that means as an appellation”.
With its sunshine to beautifully ripen the fruit and a crisp pure minerality from the soil, these wines are getting better year on year. For the past five years the wines have been “fresher, more regular and retain age-ability and purity,” says Couturier. “Our purpose is to create wines that have body, heart and soul, that keep people coming back for more and which respect the earth”. So, if you are a fan of Burgundy, be savvy and keep an eye out for Macon or Macon-Villages on your labels.
Wines of the week
Pasqua, Hey French You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t, Bianco Veneto, £32, Harrods
An attention-grabbing label and controversial title make this bottle stand out and the wine, a multi-vintage blend with some skin contact, is also palate-grabbingly delicious with the roundness of tropical fruits cut through by almonds and bright citrus.
Penfolds, Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz, 2019, £20, Morrisons
This iconic Australian estate is a master at creating expressive, sophisticated reds of power and complexity. Layers of earthy spices, ripe blueberries and chocolate combine to create a stunning bottle that could age another decade. Visit their Space themed pop-up at Harrods until the end of June for a free taste.
Della Vite Rosé Proseccoe Brut, £24.99, Selfridges
The newest release from the Delevingne sisters this is a bright, crisp sparkling which slips down far too easily in the summer sun. Beautifully fine bubbles and delicate red fruits make this quaffable wine an ideal choice for freshy fruity flavours and every bottle includes a donation to MyTrees.
Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Auslese 2015, £62.95, The Wine Barn
Auslese means late harvest so there is an intoxicating sweetness to this beautiful bottle with notes of preserved lemons, honey, bergamot, and fresh tropical fruits. This wonderfully complex IWC Silver medal winner is a treat and would be perfect with your post-dinner cheese board.
Visione Feudi Di San Gregorio 2021, £18.75, The Whisky Exchange
A fresh, peachy-pink Italian rosé from the Aglianico grape. Upon opening the frosted bottle there are waves of freshly cut flowers, raspberries, peaches and apricots, with enough structure to make this a mean pairing for your charcuterie platter or meaty pizza.