Long weekend ideas: Ooh, this could be Rotterdam
The Beautiful South thought Rotterdam could be anywhere – even Liverpool or Rome! – but they were idiots: it’s right here in Holland, and it’s a small, chic rival to Amsterdam.
Where to stay
The newly opened Slaak Rotterdam is built on the site of a former printing press, and has a jazz bar ambience that makes you feel like an extra in Casablanca. Situated in Rotterdam’s pretty, residential East Side, most of its rooms are decked out with desks and balconies, giving the place a cosy, domestic atmosphere – more upmarket apartment block than fancy hotel.
What to do
Amsterdam might have most of the Dutch masters, but Rotterdam is at the heart of the country’s modern art scene. At the centre of this scene is the Kunsthal, Rotterdam’s best gallery, which houses Monets and Picassos alongside more contemporary, conceptual works. The National Photo Museum is another highlight, boasting an extensive collection drawn from across the world.
None of the city’s attractions are especially far from one another, and as this is the Netherlands, visitors are morally obligated to hire bikes. Appropriately for a city distinguished by its architecture, many of Rotterdam’s main attractions are buildings. The Van Nelle factory is well worth a visit; formerly Holland’s biggest processor of coffee and tea, it’s now the only privately owned UNESCO World Heritage site anywhere on earth. All sleek curves and glass walkways, it is lit up at night by a huge art deco sign, and offers impressive views of the city’s industrial skyline. Anyone remotely interested in architecture should book a tour.
The food
As anyone who’s had a classic Dutch lunch of cheese sandwiches and milk will attest to, this is not a country with a proud culinary tradition. But Rotterdam is host to a burgeoning food scene, with chefs making inventive use of native ingredients while also drawing on the Netherlands’ rich multicultural inheritance. Leading the way is Aloha, situated on the banks of the Maas river, and strikingly located in a disused swimming pool. Don’t be fooled by the slightly dingy exterior – inside it’s all warm pastel hues, and the menu boasts an array of smart (and affordable) innovations on Dutch classics. There is also a resident tortoise. Dinner at De Matroos en het Meisje (‘The Sailor and the Girl’) is a more upmarket affair, with an ever-changing menu reflecting the produce offered by local markets. And head to de Kaapse brewery after dinner to sample the local beer in an old dockside warehouse.
Need to know
To book the Slaak visit theslaakrotterdam.nl/en/home. For tourist information go to en.rotterdam.info. For Aloha go to alohabar.nl and forDe Matroos en Het Meisje visit dematroosenhetmeisje.nl