Five bottles that prove bordeaux wine can be fun not stuffy
This may seem sacrilegious to most of my wine colleagues, but I have never been moved by a Bordeaux wine even though the region is a stalwart of the industry, especially in the UK.
Despite the long history of Brits and Bordeaux, and its fame across the world, I have tried and failed to find the magic that has enchanted so many. Until now. I have not been won over by those robust and worthy labels of the past but rather by the sheer range of new styles being produced right now.
A combination of climate change and a whole new audience of wine drinkers, with varied tastes and eating habits, has galvanised the winemakers into creating a more diverse portfolio. Bordeaux now offers sparkling aperitifs, fresh whites, oaked whites, rosés and their famous reds, proving a worthy accompaniment for whatever is on the menu – even sweet white dessert wines for pudding.
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Some mavericks are taking it further to produce wines more in tune with the younger audience, such as Chateau Castagnac’s funkily labelled sulphite free wines, or Chateau HourtinDucasse who are passionate about producing modern, forward-thinking wines for everyone.
Crémant de Bordeaux offers fantastic value, with Marks & Spencer’s Christmas-perfect case of six bursting with green apples, lemon zest and hints of pastry, for only £60. For lunch, sidestep those chewy reds and opt for the delightful finesse of Chateau Clarke’s Le Merle Bordeaux Blanc, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadel and Sémillon (£30.90 VINVM), which brings fresh complexity alongside easy drinkability.
Traditionally Bordeaux reds have been wines to lie down in the cellar, benefiting from years of aging to soften their tannins and develop more intricate flavours. But customers now want to be able to enjoy their wines right away and even the established houses are making blends to be sipped immediately. One of my favourite finds is Chateau d’Arsac who, after a long and protracted battle, won the right to call their wines Margaux.
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This would typically mean a far higher price point due to the favourable terroir of the area but, for those who want something traditional without breaking the bank, I have found them at £26 (Co-op). During party season, I also recommend making a splash and going large with a magnum of Chateau Lamothe-Cissac, Haut-Medoc providing class and value at £51.50 (noblegreenwines.co.uk).
It has taken until now for Bordeaux to realise its wines are about more than sombre reds cellaring for decades but about pleasant drinking, innovative winemaking and variety enough to suit everyone. Bordeaux, this looks good on you.