Firebird Soho has some of the best service in the capital – and great wine too
Unassumingly nestled on a bustling Soho street, Firebird greets you as a cool oasis of relaxed good taste. Almost all of its dishes, as the name implies, have been licked by flame. The true charm of this place lies in the warmth and attentiveness of the staff, who carry their impeccable knowledge with a casual ease and never let a wine glass run dry.
Special shout-out to the La Galoche Beaujolias, served lightly chilled and bursting with juicy bright red fruits.
We started with a delectable carafe of Arbois Chardonnay 2020. Firebird only serves wine from small natural and biodynamic producers and I recommend it for any ‘natural wine’ doubters out there. Every wine we tried was elegant, vibrant and intensely enjoyable, with a special shout-out to the La Galoche Beaujolias, served lightly chilled and bursting with juicy bright red fruits.
The dishes are made to be shared. We dipped grilled pita into creamy cod’s roe and nibbled at spiced corn ribs before diving into a choux bun filled with chicken liver paté and hazlenuts. A scrumptious combination of sweet nuttiness and earthy savoury, it proved a neat foil to the uplifting little dish of tartare topped by a golden egg yolk.
Each plate looked beautiful but some, like a plump pulpo and squid ink risotto, were so immediately satisfying it was all but gone before I remembered to take my phone out to capture the artistry. Inspired by our editor’s love of mezcal, I opted for the Strawberry Mezcal Negroni, which tasted like strawberries smoked by the bonfire; one of the best cocktails I’ve tried in months.
Next time I’ll order the Baked Banana Old Fashioned, because alcoholic banana bread sounds like winter warming perfection. Whether you’re after a light bite, a full meal, an evening cocktail, or a glass of reviving wine while Christmas shopping, Firebird offers true solace in Soho.