Exchanging Dry January for Try January
Last week I touted the Damp Lifestyle and this week I recommend exchanging Dry January for Try January. The beauty of wine is that it offers a kaleidoscope of flavours from all over the world, the crafted work of thousands of winemakers using over 10,000 different grape varieties to create their own personal take on this drink called wine.
Yet so often we stick to the same, safe label. There’s nothing wrong with knowing what you like but perhaps take this month to try something new. It is a dreary, cold time of year, so if we are not going to explore outside, now is the time to investigate the wine shops and experiment at home.
With Chinese New Year around the corner on 29 January, why not celebrate with a Chinese wine? Pick up Chateau Changyu-Moser XV rosé (Ocado, £17) to go with your Chinese takeaway or, if you fancy pushing the boat out, the Bordeaux-style smoky blend of Ao Yun 2013 (Hedonism, £275). The most special bottle I have had the pleasure of trying recently is Changyu Moser XV Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noirs 2023 (Tannico.co.uk, £46.90). Believed to be the world’s first still white wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and aged in French oak, it’s a delicious curiosity for anyone with an enquiring wine-mind.
If you are more of a traditionalist, perhaps one of the Burgundy Brigade, then there is still room for you to stretch your wings. Most white Burgundy is made from Chardonnay, but one other white grape is allowed in the region. Long sidelined comparatively, Aligoté has been ripening beautifully in recent years and is becoming what all the trendy young things are drinking. Producing bright and lively wines, pick up a bottle of Moillard-Thomas Bourgogne Aligoté (Majestic, £14.99) to enjoy with seafood and fish dishes.
Last summer, chilled red wines came to the fore and over winter I raved about the beauty of sparkling reds, which tick so many boxes, including being potentially lower in alcohol (depending on where it’s from). I fell for L’Occhiolino The Wink Sparkling Red 2021 (Laithwaites, £8.99), which was an irreverent, fun fizz at only 7.5% alcohol. For something more serious but just as enjoyable, the Simpsons of Servian Sparkling Red 2022 (Naked Wines, £14.99) is a fabulous wine from premium English winemakers Simpsons, produced at its sister vineyard in France’s Languedoc.
These wines can be a fresh aperitif as well as pairing with a range of dishes; drink them with cheese or as a fruity, palate-cleansing foil to chocolate. When selecting a new region, you can make a positive impact by buying wines from areas of the world facing crises right now, such as Ukraine or Lebanon. I have recommended Domaine des Tourelles Cuvée Pierre Brun (Majestic, £14.99) here before, as well as wines from the Lebanon’s oldest winery, Chateau Ksara, such as the robust red blend Reserve de Ksara (Majestic, £11.99). One step further would be to try one of their fantastic indigenous grapes, such as the white blossomed florals of biodynamic Sept’s Obeideh (Wanderlust Wine, £32). Ukrainian wines may be trickier to track down, but Hedonism Wines has an impressive premium selection of older vintages and The Ukrainian Wine Company (uawines.co.uk) will deliver.
Even if you are still “low or no” this month, mix it up and try Botivo’s newest incarnation, a collaboration with Berry Bros & Rudd to create the world’s first limited edition aperitivo, aged for three years in Islay whisky barrels for flavour but only 1% abv. Complex and tasty, add just a dash in your soda and you won’t be missing the booze (£38, Berry Bros & Rudd). To round off this month I shall be having a Try January party, asking friends to bring a bottle of something unusual to share, and I cannot wait to sate my wine curiosity in the best possible way. After all, taking a road less travelled can make all the difference.
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