Asparagus season: How to cook it like a pro
Asparagus season came nine weeks early this year, so now is a great time to get stuck into one of the great British veggies. This simple but delicious recipe from Paul Ainsworth brings out the best in the asparagus and will be a sure-fire hit if you serve it for guests.
Wye Valley Asparagus, Seaweed Béarnaise (Serves 4)
For the Tarragon Reduction
• 1 shallot peeled and thinly sliced.
• 75ml of white wine vinegar
• 5 crushed peppercorns
• 5 crushed coriander seeds
• 3 cloves of garlic
• 5 sticks of tarragon
• 5 sticks of thyme
• 125ml white wine
Method
• Place all ingredients into a medium sized pan and reduce liquid by half. Leave to cool and infuse. The addition of tarragon is what will make it a Béarnaise sauce rather than a Hollandaise.
For the Seaweed Béarnaise
• 2 rich egg yolks
• 40ml of strained tarragon reduction
• 200g of salted butter or 200g of clarified butter (Ghee)
• Pinch of salt
• Pinch of dried seaweed powder
• Splash of warm water
• Half of a lemon, juiced
Method
• Place a pan of water on the heat, bring to boil then reduce to simmer.
• In a bowl, whisk together reduction and egg yolks. Put the butter into a small pan on a low heat until butter is melted and a temperature of 40 degrees.
• Once the butter is melted remove from the heat and put your bowl of egg yolks and reduction over the simmering pan of water.
• Whisk continuously and you will see your eggs begin to thicken. It’s imperative your heat is turned down at this point or the egg yolks will scramble.
• When your egg yolks reach a nice thick consistency remove the bowl and start gradually adding the melted butter whilst whisking. Its vital to add the butter gradually otherwise it will split. Once all of the butter is whisked in, add a splash of warm water a pinch of salt, a pinch of dried seaweed powder, and lemon juice to taste.
For the asparagus
• Get one bunch of asparagus and snap the bottom off with care to remove the woody stem.
• With a pairing knife, carefully remove the scales going up the stem of the asparagus.
• Fill a medium sized pan with 1ltr of water, add 10g of salt and bring to the boil.
• Once boiling place the asparagus into the water for three minutes until the it is soft and tender, then strain to remove all excess water and serve alongside the Béarnaise.
More pros on how to cook asparagus to perfection
Will Murray and Jack Croft Chef Patrons of Fallow
The best way to cook asparagus is in a frying pan with a lid on and a little oil. If green vegetables touch water, the flavour and nutrients leach out. This doesn’t happen with oil. Add a splash of neutral oil and place the spears in it. Keep the lid on and gently roll the pan back and forth so no colour ends up on the asparagus. Cook for five minutes until tender and drain on kitchen paper before serving.
Will Bowlby, Chef Patron of Kricket
Asparagus are best eaten early in the season when the stems don’t need any preparation or peeling. It’s delicious grilled or roasted in the oven with rock salt, and served with a brown butter garam masala infused hollandaise. It’s equally good boiled and served with butter and salt. It’s a vegetable with such a prominent flavour that doesn’t need too much added to it at all. Keep it simple!
Ben Tish, Chef Director, Cubitt House
At our Notting Hill pub, The Princess Royal, we do an asparagus fritti, which is a great way of doing something a bit different with your asparagus. Peel the stems down nicely then dip the asparagus in a light tempura batter (sparkling water, a pinch of baking powder, salt and a little flour and you can’t go wrong!) then shallow fry in extra virgin olive oil, for just 30 seconds. The oil gets the batter so light and crisp while the steam cooks the asparagus perfectly. Serve it with a saffron aioli and you’re in for a treat!
Food news
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Double Standard, the ground floor bar and restaurant at The Standard hotel at King’s Cross, is launching a new Sunday Brunch menu. Available every Sunday from 12pm to 4pm, it will serve “British brunch favourites and hearty American classics”. It’s also £27.50 for bottomless prosecco.
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Tequila time
Kendall Jenner this month launched her 818 tequila brand in the UK. There are three expressions available: Blanco (£48), Reposado (£56), and Añejo (£65). Described as “one of the smoothest tequilas on the market”, it can be sipped neat on the rocks.
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Iconic Covent Garden restaurant Browns will reopen next month in time to celebrate its 50th anniversary. The group says the £2m refurbishment will “transform” the interior of the Grade II listed building, including “with art deco styling, luxurious furnishings and opulent finishes”.