Opulence and elegance in rural England
I’ve been lucky enough to wake up to some spectacular sights: the glacial, serene Lake Lucerne in Switzerland; the endless, pulsing cityscape of Tokyo; the stark, rugged mountains of Aspen. On the right morning, though, few things can beat the understated grandeur of the rolling English countryside. The view from the window of the Cornflower suite at Lucknam Park on a damp April day is the ideal way to experience it.
As I was enjoying the scenery, my body politely reminded me it was 6.30am on my weekend off and wondered what the hell I was doing out of bed and staring out of the window, no matter how pretty the view might be. Thankfully, before things escalated into a full blown argument, a waiter appeared with a steaming pot of coffee and some freshly baked muffins. If there is a better way to prepare for the day ahead, I’m not sure what it is. Of course, this preparation was helped along by the knowledge my day would largely involve lounging in a spa, playing board games in the drawing room or, if I was feeling particularly adventurous, taking a walk in the countryside.
For City workers looking for a relaxing weekend, Lucknam Park has an excellent selling point: it feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. There is no nagging feeling that you should take a walk into town to explore: it will cost you £25 for a cab into Bath, the nearest town, and you’d probably rather you hadn’t bothered. Instead, you can while away the hours soaking up the tranquil atmosphere. There are 42 rooms in total but, at three quarters full during my visit, it felt like far less.
Lucknam Park is a master of understated luxury. The building itself is a converted 17th Century stately home, which manages to be both imposing and cosy. An open fire crackles in the library and grand portraits look down from the walls of the drawing room.
The Michelin starred Park restaurant – with a strict jacket and tie dress code – is the kind of opulent hall you can imagine Jay Gatsby entertaining in, casting wistful glances across the lawns in the hope of catching Daisy’s eye. Executive chef Hywel Jones produces exquisite creations from locally sourced produce; the gourmet tasting menu – at a not inexpensive £90 a head – is a sea of British staples; haddock, venison, duck, served with seasonal greens and excellently matched wine. The Brasserie is the more informal option, overlooking a terrace through floor to ceiling windows, serving posh fish and chips and the like.
The biggest draw, though, is the spa, which consists of a pool, Japanese salt steam room, sauna, tepidarium and an “amethyst room”, which seemed to me to be a tiled cell with a purple rock glued to the ceiling but is probably imbued with incredible healing energies if you’re inclined to believe in that kind of thing. Best of all is the hydrotherapy pool, heated to “scorching” and featuring an outdoor area where you can watch the clouds roll by and feel the rain on your face as your tension drifts away with the steam.
At £520 a night for a deluxe twin room, or £725 for a standard suite, Lucknam Park is hardly cheap: but what else would you expect from one of the finest spas in the country?
• Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Bath is offering a summer special of four nights for the price of three, available throughout the week from now until 30 September.
• Room rates start from £330 and suites from £725 per room per night and are inclusive of full English breakfast and use of the spa facilities.
• Children under 12 stay on a complimentary bed and breakfast basis, when sharing a deluxe room or above with two adults.
• Visit lucknampark.co.uk for more details.